This is where the stencil files for the bare boards I sell live
All files are packed using LZMA2/xz, they can be opened by many tools, including 7zip on windows. This is my standard archive format whenever I have a choice - especially when I pay for bandwidth, which I do because I'm not a scrub - github is only used to host the core itself (which is clearly open source software and exactly when github is meant for, and the Linux x64 version of the toolchain (unfortunately the best we can use there is BZip2, which results in files 3-4 times larger - Arduino can't decompress .xz) because every commit downloads the file about 100 times for github actions, and keeping that file on github's network saves github some money, and saves me enough money to make the difference between "We have CI, so I can maintain these cores" and "I don't have CI, I am not able to maintain these cores because I cannot detect regressions automatically, and there is too much totest to do it manually".
The .tar.xz files are not just to save me some cash, either: The format and algorithms associated with it blow the competition out of the water. They decompress much faster, compress at about the same speed, and the compression ratio is amazing - for the sort of reptitive machine readable files like toolchains in particular. .tar.bz2 beats .zip by a nose on the toolchain. .tar.xz beats .tar.bz by a factor of 3! (note that all of the compression algorithms have some of the highest compression ratios you'll ever see: The compressed xz is around 12mb - the tar file before compression is around 300 mb
See the the toolchains page for links to the toolchain versions.
Board Assembly Information Packages
Most of these packages include a schematic and a BOM/Assembly notes that briefly outline the options you have for alternate configurations (On the microcontroller breakouts, all that **needs** to be placed is the chip and it's decoupling caps, but the rest of them are there because I found the parts - like LEDs, separate 3-pin UPDI header, voltage regulator, etc) to be annoying to not have, but you have a great deal of latitude in terms of which parts you place. All boards contain solder bridge jumpers or "bridgable pads" or whatever you want to call them to configure things like autoreset or what the CTS pin on the FTDI header goes to, as well as allowing you to sever the link to every place that it connects to a source of external power, so that you can avoid, for example, backpowering a regulator and wasting battery life). These are all
- QFN/DFN/more stencils for single chip breakouts - This contains a stencil with a the footprint for every footprint on the boards at the link below. This includes a few of the supertiny ones, and almost every "normal" QFN package up to QFN32 (typically in 2-4 pin pitches)
- 24-pin tinyAVR Pro For rev. -, Rev. A, Rev. B and Rev. D (rev C was no good) breakout board for all tinyAVR 1-series, and 2-series parts - and the 0-series too if you find yourself using those (my condolences) - with 24 pins (The ATtiny 807, 1607, 417, 817, 1617, 3217, 427, 827, 1627 and 3227 in QFN24. All of these parts are supported on Arduino by my megaTinyCore. The tinyAVR 1-series and 2-series are powerful and well equipped modern AVRs, with highly accurate internal oscillator (UART works without any special measures - and unlike classic AVR, UART has virtually no *calculation* error. They run at up to 20 MHz (generally overclock very well, 32 is not hard to achieve on 2-series @ room temp + 5v), have 6 (0/2-series) or 8 PWM capable pins. 16k+ 1-series have dual ADCs, 3 AC's and 2k of RAM (instead of the 1k you'd expect at 16k). The 2-series is newer, a few of the peripherals are more polished, and it has a very fancy ADC. The 0-series.... It was clearly meant to be a cost-saving version of the 1-series. But the 1-series is already fairly cheap, and they must not have saved what they'd hoped, because prices are **virtually identical** between the two, though the 0-series has jetisoned a very large number of features, some of them rather useful. They still look good compared to classic AVRs, but they look really uninspiring next to newer modern AVRs. We recommend a 16 or 32k 1-series or a 2-series part (the price difference between 8k and 16k 1-series is small, even though the 16/32k ones get bonus features). Includes schematics and BOM.
- 20-pin tinyAVR Pro (1606, 3216, 3226, and smaller flash versions of those) For rev. -, Rev. A, Rev. B and Rev. D (rev C was no good). Includes schematics and BOM.
- 14-pin tinyAVR Pro (1604, 1614, 3224, and smaller flash versions of those) For rev. -, Rev. A, Rev. B Rev. C (flawed - no on-board LED connection - same stencil as Rev. D), Rev. D. Includes schematics and BOM.
- 8-pin tinyAVR Pro (202, 402, 212, 412) For rev. -, Rev. A, and Rev. B. Includes schematics and BOM.
- AVR DA/DB 64-pin breakout for any 64-pin DA or DB-series AVR, and probably the next 64 pin parts they release too. Includes stencils for Rev. A and Rev. B (with DB support), BOM, and schematic. The DA and DB are the current flagship AVRs, and these are the maximum pinout versions. All of these parts are supported on Arduino by my megaTinyCore. The DA is the "baseline" upmarket AVR, while the DB is the "premium" version, with added features like external HF crystal (they really don't like external crystals now... on the other hand you don't need them nearly as much). The Dx-series (all of them) has a 12-bit ADC with no amplifier and limited differential capability (the 2-series tinies and Ex-series have a proper differential ADC, with programmable gain and that good stuff. On the other hand, these come with up to 16k of SRAM/128k of flash (vs the 6k and 64k of the largest EA), and more of every peripheral, 67% more event channels and 50% more LUTs than... uh.. anything not DA/DB w/48+ pins. SIX USARTs (vs 3 on the EA, 2 on the tiny2, DU, and DD and 1 on the EB and older modern tinys); the actual number of available peripherals varies by pincount. The 48-pin and 64-pin parts have a much better set of peripherals than 28/32-pin ones (the peripherals on the 48 and 64 pin parts are only slightly different, same for the 28 and 32-pin ones compared to eachother.)
- AVR DA/DB/EA 48-pin breakout for any 48-pin DA, DB, EA, or ATmega xx09. Note (includes stencils for Rev. A and Rev. B. These are compatible with other 48-pin modern AVRs too, including the exciting new EA-series, and the not as new, and marginally less exciting atmega xx09 parts, like the ATmega4809 ("the last of the Atmegas"). It's no secret that the 48-pin package is the one Microchip likes most - it's what they use for curiosity nanos, and it would appear that they do a lot of development and test internally using those too.
- AVR DD 14-pin and EB 14-pin breakout These are two different coming soon board designs. The first uses the 14-pin DD-series parts, which bring 64k flash and Dx-class features to a 14-pin package. The EB, in contrast, appears to be a powerhouse if you want gourmet PWM (if you only want vanilla 8-bit PWM, you won't be very happy. If you liked TCD0,
- ATtiny841, 167, 1634 breakout board stencils The 841 breakout works with 441, 841, 24, 24A, 44, 44A, 84, 84A, SOIC/SOP-14. The 167 (or 87) breakout uses the TSSOP package version, allowing for a more compact and less expensive product - oh pipe down, at least I didn't use the WQFN it now comes in... And the 1634 breakout works for the 1634. Nothing else had a pinout anything like that at the time. That was one of very few 20 pin parts with power on the end instead of the middle. The era of the 828, 1634, and 328pb brought a number of presents to those using that range of pincounts, which, of course, were later incorporated into the most recent designs. I think (and I belive most familiar with the product line will agree) that the tiny841 is the real standout performer among the classic tinyAVRs. The two 16k ones may have some utility if you need a classic AVR and 8k isn't enough and/or if you already have code available. For new AVR work, I would suggest the parts further up - they are faster, cheaper, have better peripherals, and more features
- ATtiny88 Rev. D (or Rev. C - but those have been classified as defective and unsalable, and new boards were ordered) An unfortunate error in the design resulted in a missing trace to the LED, so I reordered. but in the end, these didn't sell terribly well,.